Agra, Varanasi, and Beyond

Hello all! Sorry it has been so long. The past few days have been a whirlwind and we have had limited internet connection.
Our train finally arrive in Dehli, 6 hours later, and took us to Agra. Sierra pronounces it a-gra (short 'a' sound, followed by gra), and I say ag-ra (ag followed by the ra). We both think we are right. Anywho, we made it to the city of the Taj Mahal. This place is for sure a tourist area. All over people are trying to screw you out of money. Even our hotel tried. It can be very taxing! We just wanted to go to sleep in a nice air conditioned room when we arrived at 11, but no we had to go through 3 rooms on several different floors, wait for the manager, haggle, wait some more, and finally, several hours later were aloud to sleep in a semi-air-conditioned room. Oh we moved out of that room into a room with sweet crushed red velvet curtains. Baller!
We spent Friday wandering through the area. We saw tons of monkeys and took photos of the local kids. Agra is hotter and dryer then Dehli and we sweated our asses off. I must say I hate when beads of sweat trickle down my legs. It makes me feel like bugs are crawling all over me.
So, I really want to upload photos right now, but I can not seem to find them on Nick M. computer. I will ask him and do it later.
Anywho, we went to the Taj Mahal at 5:30 on Saturday. We figured we would wake up very early, see it, have breakfast, and make our train to Gwalior. The Taj is beautiful. A tuk tuk took us to the entrance and we walk 1-2 km into where you pay. It is in a very secluded area. The grounds surrounding are all green, which is remarkable considering everywhere else is brown and dead. You might be interested to know that the area surrounding our hotel, the community of living area, is infested with trash. The sewer literally runs along the side of the road. At times you will see stray dogs sitting in it to cool off. There are areas, in the middle of where people live, completely filled with trash. I tell you this because the area surrounding the Taj is pristine.
The Taj was magnificent. Though I must say the pictures you see on TV and in book of it are for sure enhances. The sky is no where near that blue.
We made it to the station to find out our train was delayed an hour. Dehli time. Made it to Gwalior where we went to an ACed hotel and hung out for 6 hours before our next train to Varanasi.
Varanasi is one of the Holy cities visited on Hindu pilgrimage. They have 165 Ghats, or places where people bathe in the Ganga River. They also have something similar to a crematorium called the Burning Ghat. When people die they are taken here. A ceremony is preformed and the people in burned for 3 hours. The remaining parts of the body are then placed in the Ganga. The guide book said over 45,000 people, or parts of, are placed in the Ganga each year.
The burning Ghats are a site. I thought they would smell awful, but really there was no unpleasant odor. We met a kid, who later scammed us a little, who told us all about the ritual. The dead person is first washed with 5 different types of oils, spices, and butter, they are wrapped in silk or cotton, dipped in the Ganga for one last bath. The family then has one last drink from the Ganga to remember the body. They are then brought up to the place they will be burned. They walk around the body five times and get the fire of Shiva. The fire of Shiva has been burning consistently for 3,000 years. They get the fire with grass and light the Mango wood. Oh there is a little sandal wood. The body burns for 3 hours. After, the youngest son or oldest son or husband shaves their head leaving a small tuft in the back and dress in all white to symbolize mourning. The rest of these details are a bit fuzzy on when they happen, but you'll get the idea. At some point the family bathes in the Ganga. They then return home, wait 10-days, more heads are shaves, and something like a funeral with lots of food happens. We were told many times that weddings and funerals were the two most important events and the most expensive ones too.
The whole process is beautiful. Did I mention that women are not aloud to participate in this. They can be burned, but don't participate in the ceremony. There are 6-types of people who are not burned; people bitten by cobras, pregnant women, people with disease, children under 10, Holy Men Sadu and animals. These people are wrapped in banana leaves, tied to a rock, and dropped into the Ganga. Ya, we saw some dead bodies.
The whole this is wonderful. The culture and rituals are sooooooo deep.
In the early morning we took a boat ride up the Ganga to see all the Ghats and watch the people bathe. It was refreshing and so peaceful. I think it is interesting to be watching such an intimate part of someones day. The Hindu's believe the Ganga to be holy and consider its waters purifying and almost lucky. People pilgrim from all over the world to bathe here. At night we went on another ride to see the evening ceremony that is preformed every night.
Old city is the part of the city right on the river. You can not take a car here. Instead they drop you off on the outside and you follow a series of small roads through. We met a kid here who showed us all around these alley ways.
Varanasi was awesome and by far our favorite place so far. We are not in Kolkata enjoying the Paraguay/Japan futbol game that Paraguay just won. Tomorrow we will be learning what we will be doing for the next month. So exciting.
Oh...it's monsooning!
YAY

P.S. Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes!

train station

We are sitting in the dehli train station. Literally sitting on the floor. People walk past and stare like it is their job. Stare, not trying to pretend like they are not looking, but genuinely stare! We are sitting on the ground because our train is delayed 5 hours. People keep walking past and starring. We don't mind it. We definately look different. Someone said brother was his hero because he is so tall. Yesterday people were taking mine and sierra's photo. They were amazed. We just got told the taj mahal is closed on friday. Guess what day we are going! Friday! Joy! We might not be seeing the taj! Hmmm. Huge bummer. Well we are still sitting. Waiting for 3 more hours. Its hot. But, it rained a little. Happy trails.

Shaving and Driving...Not at the Same Time

Face Shaving

Straight edge face shaving is a common practice for men in India. So, the boys decided to do it. Brother went first. The guy shaved his face in record time then asked if he wanted a face massage. Brother said yes and the man proceeded to rub the crap out of his face with several different fragrant lotions. Then he put a pink mask on and made him sit for 10 minutes while he cut Nick's hair. Brother was not stoked about the pink mask. This was only made better by the 14-year-old boy, who is a servant to the barber, who fanned him persistently. Brother also exchanged music with the kid. I am surprised at how many people have cell phones here and how little etiquette they have. For example we were in a tourist agency booking hotels with a man. His phone rang and he answered in mid-sentence. Weird!

Nick decided at breakfast that it would be a good idea to cut his luscious locks off. Siting that they were too hot and making him stand out even more then his REI getup. Granted Nick is stoked on his REI getup because he is cooled then in jeans and a t-shirt. Anywho, he cut his hair and keeps complaining that he looks like a child. Wait, wait, wait...did I mention he got a shave too? Complete with pink face mask? Oh yes, it was amazing! I think he looks like this picture that was on a fan at the Citadel. A couple of you will know what I am talking about. I think he looks very handsome. Nick also got the full run down which consisted of some slapping and jerking. He said it felt really good.

All day we have been getting comments about how honest and kind they look. I must look like a cradle robber or something.


Here are some videos from where we are. This first one is walking out of our hotel to the busy road in Pahar Ganj in Old Dehli. This area is not a slum, but it is a poorer area.


Nick is a sweaty man. He came to the conclusion today that he needs to eat more salt cuz his sweat tastes like water. It is 111 degrees in the shade. Seriously! P.S. I miss my hair because I look like a child! (Nick)


Last but not least is our taxi ride out of the ghetto, to a cleaner, nicer part of town in a tuk tuk vehicle. P.S. the guy not driving in the front seat is Kamil, our new friend! You'll hear more about him later... (we have to edit this video for size so it will be up later)

Pictures

Brother, shrimpy, is stoked we made it to India, so he did a cartwheel.

We made it!

Nick sterilizing the water from the sink at the hotel. We are used to glorious Utah water so this stuff tasted nasty!

In the cemetery, enough said.

There are stray dogs all over Dehli. You see them sleeping under cars, taking massive dumps on piles of trash, scavenging, and hanging out in cemeteries. They seem to fear people, but Nick, being the tender-hearted animal lover he is, offered this dog some water to which she gratefully accepted.


Dehli is the capital of India. However, I have not seen any skyscrapers or industrial-looking buildings. For the most part, the city looks like this. Also, this is very close to the main center of the city which looks the same!

Shrimpy attempting to sleep after a 10 hour nap. Notice he has his sleep sack over his head.

2:33 and AWAKE!

We took a nap. Bad choice. Well, brother and I took and a nap. It wasn't so much a nap as going to bed in our clothes with every intention of waking up and going to dinner. Oh, and watching the Pakistan/India cricket match. Neither of which happened. No, we woke up at 1 praying for daylight so we can start our adventures. Day light is not coming. Yeah, Nick was the smart one today. He stayed up. Too bad I am a horrible person and woke him up. I just told him I was going to give him the computer so he could write and he told me he was going to sleep and write in the morning.

For some reason I can not comment back. Lame.
So Mama- Mama, I am so glad you understand the fence obsession now! Seriously, one time nick found him at the bottom of a tree barking and wagging his tail at the cat he pinned up there. He was so proud of himself. Needless to say, Nick was not pleased. I miss that little guy but am super glad he is doing well under your direction. I think it was pry a good transition for him because he is being kept very busy protecting the house!

Are you getting my emails and texts? The phone is working great. Love and kisses to all!

This is the photo of the Nick's taking margarita shots in the airport before our flight.

3/4 HERE!

Well, Jessi, Nick, and Nick made it to India. It was no an easy feat. We were flying standby, thanks Mengis's, so we are at the mercy of the airplanes, captains, weight, and all sorts of other factors.
Brother and I started our journey at 6 this morning and Nick followed shortly behind at 11. We all met in Chicago around 4 and waited to see if we were going to get on the dehli flight.
Nick and Nick decided it would be a good idea to drink some of the alcohol the flight attendant gave brother on the previous flight. Oh by the way Nick was so stoked to be flying first class. The attendant came over to ask if we would like breakfast, a muffin, tropical fruit cocktail, cereal, and so one. Nick said he would take a muffin to which he was told he got it all. He lit up and was stoked. I think the better part was he didn't have to let his head flop on the back of the seat to which he induced a horrible neck ache. Needless to say he flew to India in complete comfort. He even slept, yes, really slept on the flight to Dehli.
Back to getting here. We were lucky to have met Nick's dad in the airport. He is a pilot and happened to know the pilot on the plane we were trying to get on. It was crazy and looking like we were not getting on. 30 minutes after the scheduled time for departure a family with a puking child was escorted off the plane and we were let on. Apparently them getting off meant the weight was just right for us to get on.
We got on and were met with cocktails, food, and a a chair that turned into a bed. Brother watched 4 movies, drank some cocktails, and like I said before slept. Nick enjoyed himself too and I chatted it up with Atool. He was super nice and ordered my food and drinks for me. It was wonderful!
We made it to Dehli! Got in a cab with a guy who drove us to this random tourist info place at 11 at night and then filled up his tire with air. Seriously it was 11km to our hotel and it took us over an hour. Adventure. On the way in we drove through were the Baazar is. All sorts of men are sleeping on the street in their under ware. They were sleeping super close together. There must have been at least 40 infront of each store front.
Well we are going to go figure out our next adventure!
Waiting for Sierra!!!
Soon we will be complete!

Break Down

This is the trip so far
June 17th- Nick, Brother, Jessi leave for India
June 18th- Arrive late at night in Dehli
June 21st- Sierra leaves for Dehli
June 22nd- Sierra arrives in Dehli and we are all united
June 24th- Head to Agra by train to see the Taj Mahal
June 26th- Longest train day ever to Varanassi
June 29th- Train to Calcutta or as the write it in India Kolkata
June 30th- July 21st- Calcutta Mercy Ministries service work
July 21st- Off to Southern India, Nepal, or Tibet...who knows...suggestions...

So Much to Do

Nick, Nick, and I (Jessi) are going to attempt to fly out on Thursday, God willing. But, before we leave we have a small, I mean big, issue to tackle. We have to build a fence. Correction, the dog likes to jump the old fence so a new one has to be put in. Second correction, I am doing very little of the actual building. Apparently I am really good at some things,like telling people what to do...just ask brother. But the building, like the actual building is not my strongest suit. Well, at least not when the Nicks are taking care of it. So back to the issue. We have one day to get this fence up. Booya!

May the Gods be with us!